Discover the Balkans by bike along the Adriatic Sea

After finally picking up my bike in Split, my journey began with a breathtaking view of the azure blue sea. The first stage took me along the coast, the traffic was pleasant and I was even accompanied by a tailwind – a promising start. However, after about 40 kilometres, an unexpected defect on my pannier rack caused me problems. A short odyssey, which took me back 8 kilometres, finally ended in a shop that fixed the rack with Balkan-style, armoured tape and a pinch of improvisation.

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On the route between Split and Tučepi, you can visit the historic town of Omis. Omis lies on the banks of the river Cetina and impresses with its medieval architecture and views of the surrounding mountains.

Another highlight is the Biokovo mountain range, which stretches out in the background. It not only offers spectacular views, but also numerous hiking trails for the adventurous.

A day along the coast, with the sound of the sea in my ears and refreshing stops in the water – could it get any better? The journey took me across the border to Bosnia, where I paid with the convertible mark. In the evening, I was treated to a curious sight: a group of Chinese travellers dancing to Bosnian folk songs. A refreshing example of the cultural diversity offered by this trip.

A day of highs and lows – after a refreshing swim at one of the most beautiful beaches, I experienced three punctures. Without spare inner tubes, the journey threatened to end prematurely. But the helpfulness of a local saved the day. Her father showed me shops where I found everything I needed to repair my bike. An impressive example of the hospitality of the people along my route.

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On the way from Neum to Cavtat lies the historic city of Dubrovnik. The well-preserved old town with its imposing walls offers a unique experience. A walk along the city walls not only offers a view of the Adriatic Sea, but also of Dubrovnik’s rich history.

Another highlight is the coastal town of Ston, famous for its salt marshes and the second longest preserved city wall in the world. Here you can savour the culinary delights of the region.

After successfully repairing my bike, I travelled to Budva, with a mix of beautiful sections and challenging traffic. A short ferry ride put an end to the traffic chaos. In Budva I met Cecile and treated myself to a well-deserved rest day, which we crowned with the hire of a boat – an unforgettable experience.

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The route from Cavtat to Budva leads through the Lovćen National Park, known for its spectacular mountain scenery. The serpentine roads not only offer challenging cycle paths, but also breathtaking views of the Bay of Kotor.

The tour along the coast offered a magnificent view of the sea. Curiously, several cars overtook me, only to catch up with them all later at the border, while I was simply waved through on my bike. Another border crossing took me to Albania, a country which, despite its modest circumstances, is characterised by the extraordinary friendliness of its inhabitants.

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On the way from Budva to Shkodra, you should make a detour to Lake Skutari. The largest lake in the Balkans is surrounded by impressive nature and offers numerous opportunities for birdwatching and boat trips.

Another highlight is the island of Sveti Stefan off the coast of Budva. The historic island with its characteristic red roofs is a popular photo motif and a place with a special charm.

The route to Durres was not only physically demanding, but also mentally challenging, as it was mostly flat and straight ahead. On the way, I met a friendly Brit with whom I cycled together for the next few days. My pannier rack finally said goodbye and I even ventured onto parts of the motorway – an experience that added a curious anecdote to my journey.

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On the way from Shkodra to Durres, you pass the ancient city of Apollonia. The ruins of this historic site offer an insight into Albania’s past and are a fascinating destination for history buffs.

Another highlight is the Karavasta lagoon, the largest wetland in Albania. Here you can observe rare bird species and enjoy the unspoilt nature.

The day’s stage began with the replacement of my pannier rack. A helpful Albanian who had spent some time in Bremen helped me to find a garage on Sunday morning. The journey to Vlore was uneventful, but nevertheless pleasant.

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In Durres, it is worth visiting the amphitheatre, which dates back to Roman times. The well-preserved ruins bear witness to the rich history of the region and offer an impressive insight into ancient architecture.

Another highlight is the small town of Berat, also known as the “city of a thousand windows”. The well-preserved old town with its white houses is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers a charming insight into traditional Albanian life.

I met Charly in Vlore and together we took on the mountainous challenge. The steep ascent turned out to be a stroke of luck, as we were able to motivate each other. The view from the top of the mountain was breathtaking and the subsequent descent made up for the effort, even if the rain put a spanner in the works.

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The route from Vlore to Himare passes through the Llogara Pass, which is known for its winding road and spectacular views of the coast. An absolute highlight for cyclists who are up for the challenge.

The last leg of my journey began with a relaxed coasting, but I set off early in the morning to catch the ferry to Corfu. The journey through Albania offered some of the most beautiful sections of the entire tour. The ferry crossing to Corfu became an unexpected highlight when a couchsurfer put me up in a hotel overlooking the pool. A wonderful way to end the trip.

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The route from Himare to Sarande runs along the Albanian Riviera, a stretch of coastline with secluded beaches and picturesque villages. The view of the Ionian Sea and the small bays make this journey an unforgettable experience.

The crossing to Corfu offers the opportunity to explore the green island. The historic centre of Corfu Town, with its narrow streets and Venetian buildings, is well worth a visit.

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